Recently my sister's car stopped working, it just doesn't start up, my dad's theory is that the energy is not reaching the spark plug, we already checked the battery and fuel pump and they seem alright, does anyone have any idea of what we could do to fix it or help me in the diagnostic? i would be grateful
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Sister's car not working
SpartanEvolved
SpartanEvolved
I would say PM Dart. He is likely the most knowledgeable about cars here.
Dart said:Type of car, how old and mileage. I have a hunch...
it is a Cavalier, 2002, I was not told what the mileage was though.
mariorulezman
Baptized in Flames
Is it possible its the starter?
Fuel Pump or timing belt. Try popping the lid off the air cleaner box, and with a can of starting fluid, spray it into the intake while someone is attempting to start it. If the engine can run off the starting fluid, change the pump and filter. Pull the pump out first because there are two different types of pumps that were offered with this car.
If it's the belt, the noise from the engine will be a bit higher pitched when attempting to start, as the crank is spinning, but the cam assembly is not. Good thing is I don't believe GM made an interference engine, so there shouldn't be any costly valve-to-piston contact.
Another, although less likely problem could be a burned up ECU or PCM. Both can be extremely costly as the keys would no longer work.
If it's the belt, the noise from the engine will be a bit higher pitched when attempting to start, as the crank is spinning, but the cam assembly is not. Good thing is I don't believe GM made an interference engine, so there shouldn't be any costly valve-to-piston contact.
Another, although less likely problem could be a burned up ECU or PCM. Both can be extremely costly as the keys would no longer work.
Dart said:Fuel Pump or timing belt. Try popping the lid off the air cleaner box, and with a can of starting fluid, spray it into the intake while someone is attempting to start it. If the engine can run off the starting fluid, change the pump and filter. Pull the pump out first because there are two different types of pumps that were offered with this car.
If it's the belt, the noise from the engine will be a bit higher pitched when attempting to start, as the crank is spinning, but the cam assembly is not. Good thing is I don't believe GM made an interference engine, so there shouldn't be any costly valve-to-piston contact.
Another, although less likely problem could be a burned up ECU or PCM. Both can be extremely costly as the keys would no longer work.
the fuel pump is working according to my dad, he listened to the noise of the pump when it starts. So he says it can't be the Belt either however we might try your solution just to make sure.
when we try to turn it on we listen the starter working good but the motor doesn't make combustion... my dad thinks you might be right with the less likely option, if so how much would an ECU or PCM cost?
we need to find out if the electric failure is in the distributor or in the ECU
Thank you for your help Dart we appreciate it.
When the computer fried it's self in my wife's van, it took out the sensors for the A/C and instrument cluster. $950 was the final bill. New keys had to be made because the identification number on the computer didn't match the original keys.
Had the same issue with a '93 Dodge Dakota, but that wasn't nearly as much, as it just killed the ignition and didn't harm anything else.
A distributor will rarely cause a completely dead engine. The cap and rotor will deteriorate over time, and will cause poor performance. If the distributor shaft breaks (rarely if ever happens), it will kill the oil pump along with it, as both are driven off the camshaft by the distributor shaft. Only way to see for sure is to unbolt the base and slide the whole shaft out. But reinstalling on that engine is a slow, and often frustrating endeavor. I had to do this once with a GM Vortech 3.8 liter in my dad's S10 Blazer. I wanted to kick puppies when I was done, but the dang thing started up when it was done!
Had the same issue with a '93 Dodge Dakota, but that wasn't nearly as much, as it just killed the ignition and didn't harm anything else.
A distributor will rarely cause a completely dead engine. The cap and rotor will deteriorate over time, and will cause poor performance. If the distributor shaft breaks (rarely if ever happens), it will kill the oil pump along with it, as both are driven off the camshaft by the distributor shaft. Only way to see for sure is to unbolt the base and slide the whole shaft out. But reinstalling on that engine is a slow, and often frustrating endeavor. I had to do this once with a GM Vortech 3.8 liter in my dad's S10 Blazer. I wanted to kick puppies when I was done, but the dang thing started up when it was done!
Dart said:Any update?
My dad along with a few mechanics did a few checks to see if it was the ECU, and that does not seem to be the problem, my dad just told me it might just be a problem from the Gas filter but i didn't really understand him very well.... he gave up and sent the car to an autobody repair shop and we probably will get some info on monday
Clogged fuel filter would mean the pump needs to be replaced also. Any sludge stuck in the filter passed through the pump, also the back pressure is enough to wear out the pump.
I had a friend once who went to one of those cheap gas stations, filled up his van and never made it out of the lot because he managed to pump all of the sludge buildup out of the station's tank and into his van. His whole fuel system had to be replaced. Gas station had to pay because they bypassed their pump filters. And believe me, fuel is nasty corrosive on metal.
I had a friend once who went to one of those cheap gas stations, filled up his van and never made it out of the lot because he managed to pump all of the sludge buildup out of the station's tank and into his van. His whole fuel system had to be replaced. Gas station had to pay because they bypassed their pump filters. And believe me, fuel is nasty corrosive on metal.